How to Lay Sod So It Takes: Prep, Installation and Watering

Before delivery: measure and order

Measure every area to be sodded and add about 5% for cuts on simple shapes, or up to 10% around curves, beds and trees. Sod is sold by the pallet, and pallet sizes vary by supplier, so our sod calculator turns your measurements into pallets and pieces for slabs or rolls. Schedule delivery for the day you’ll lay it; sod stacked on a pallet heats up and dries out fast.

Step 1: Prepare the soil

Most sod failures start here. The University of Nebraska–Lincoln recommends:

• Clear the area of old grass, debris and rocks.
• Grade for drainage so water flows away from buildings, filling low spots. Aim for at least 4 inches of topsoil.
• Test the soil and correct pH or nutrient problems. See how to read a soil test.
• Till 4 to 6 inches deep. On clay soil, work in about an inch of compost, then another inch in a different direction. Don’t add sand to heavy clay. Our compost calculator works out the amount.
• Let the soil settle or firm it lightly, then rake it smooth and level. Avoid working soil when it’s wet.

Finish the grade so the soil sits about the thickness of the sod below sidewalks and driveways, so the new lawn ends up flush.

Step 2: Lay the sod

1. Lightly moisten the soil just before you start.
2. Start along a straight edge, like a driveway or sidewalk.
3. Stagger the joints like bricks so the ends of pieces don’t line up row to row.
4. Butt the edges tightly without overlapping or stretching the pieces; stretched sod shrinks back and leaves gaps.
5. Cut pieces with a sharp knife around curves and beds.
6. On slopes, start at the bottom and lay the pieces across the slope. The University of Nebraska–Lincoln notes that slopes of 10% or more may need pegs or staples to hold sod in place.
7. Roll lightly to press the sod into contact with the soil, then water thoroughly right away.

Step 3: Water through the first weeks

• Days 1–14: water daily. The University of Nebraska–Lincoln recommends daily watering for the first two weeks, with an extra light watering in mid-to-late afternoon during hot weather. The goal is to keep both the sod and the soil just under it moist.
• Check rooting after 7–10 days. Gently tug on a corner. When the sod resists lifting, which usually happens within 10–14 days in good weather, start watering less often but more deeply.
• Keep an eye on it for months. Sod can take a long time to root fully, so watch for drought stress during dry spells.

Edges and corners dry out first; give them extra attention. Once the sod has rooted, use our sprinkler run time calculator to set a deep, weekly watering schedule.

Step 4: First mowing and beyond

• Mow as soon as there’s new top growth, at about 3 to 3½ inches (3½ inches or higher for tall fescue), removing no more than a third of the blade.
• Use a light walk-behind mower for the first few mowings to avoid rutting soft sod.
• Keep traffic off until the lawn is established.
• Wait to aerate until the sod is firmly rooted, usually one to two months after installation.

Sources

• University of Nebraska–Lincoln Turfgrass Science: Establishing lawns from sod
• Sod Solutions: How many square feet are in a pallet of sod?